Update and Tip of the Day

I spent some time this weekend cutting out the Styrofoam in the shapes of the buildings for the diorama.  Since the Styrofoam is only 3/4 of an inch thick, I had to cut out each shape twice and tape it together.  I have a couple more  buildings to tape together, then I will be putting on the paper mache. 

In case anyone thinks about trying this, cutting Styrofoam is a big mess.  Keep your vacuum cleaner handy. 

Tip of the Day.  Use a scrap piece of Styrofoam as a sander block to knock off loose pieces of Styrofoam.  It will clean up a cut edge nicely.

Picture of my Latest Stained Glass Gazing Ball

This is my latest gazing ball.  The spiral pattern was created by wrapping and taping bias tape (a sewing notion) around the ball until I had an even spiral all the way around the ball.  See some of my earlier posts for a more detailed description of how I make my stained glass gazing balls. 

I used a sterling silver colored epoxy grout for this ball.  I dried much lighter than the representative color on the box.  However, it does have a bit of sparkly silver go it that is not visible in this photograph. 

Update: Progress on Diorama and Gazing Ball

Yesterday turned out to be a beautiful day, despite the forecast for rain.  It was so warm that I was able to take my workbench outside and grout my stained glass gazing ball in my yard.  I experimented with an epoxy grout this time.  It should work well for external use.  However, I was a little disappointed with the color of the grout.  The color did not closely match its example on the front of its container.  It is considerably lighter now that the grout is dry.  I would have preferred that it was darker to better unite the design on the gazing ball. The spiral design is still there, but not nearly as visible as I would have like it to be.  It was raining earlier this morning and is still overcast at the moment.  Hopefully it will clear off soon and I will be able to get a picture of the ball to put on the blog sometime this weekend.

I spent a little time on the diorama yesterday as well.  I made some construction paper cut outs to try to get a sense of the layout and proper proportions.  Now that I have an idea of the design, I will begin making the elements of the diorama out of Styrofoam, and cover them in paper mache. 

I have been reading a book on photographing art and craft objects.  I am close to getting out the camera and trying to take some good pictures of my folk art.  They will be the subject of future blogging.

Update and Tip of the Day

Sometimes things don't go as planned.  I had hoped to get a primer coat on my diorama and grout the mosaic  stained glass gazing ball.  A few extra phone calls, an errand that could not wait, and my plans are in disarray.  I did get a coat of primer on the diorama.  I just had to give up on grouting the ball.  So grouting the gazing ball is my new plan for this morning.

Tip of the Day:  Understand how the Environmental Protection Agency Laws could affect you.
Some art products are potentially harmful to you and to the environment.  In an ideal world, everyone would practice using and disposing of these products wisely.  That does not always happen, so there are laws about such things.  If you are selling art from your home or  teaching lessons from your home or workshop, some commercial laws on safe disposal of materials may apply to you in ways that do not necessarily apply to a person making craft projects for personal use.

Future posts will talk about product safety and proper disposal of art materials.

Update: Project Status

I have been working on my projects over the past few days.  My latest mosaic stained glass gazing ball is ready to be grouted.  I bought grout yesterday and I expect to grout the ball today.  The weather is changing to rain again tomorrow, so it might be a few days before I can put up a picture.

This past weekend I completed cutting wood and putting the diorama together.  Today I will be painting the primer coat on the wood.  It feels good to get to a point where I see progress on a project.  Sometimes it seems like it takes forever to get something done.

Tip of the Day: Spirals on Stained Glass Gazing Balls

I have done spirals by eye on some balls, only to find about half way through that the spirals were uneven. That was very frustrating because I had to pry off all that glued down glass. I did not want to draw my spiral on the ball, because if I was using translucent glass the lines could show through the glass if it crossed over the line. I finally figured out a way to create the spiral pattern on the ball that could be removed a little at a time as I glued the glass down. I used a strip of bias tape(a sewing notion) and taped it to the ball using a low tack artist's tape. Because the cloth strip is cut on the bias, it stretches and curves, making it easy to follow the curve of the ball. In some places I had to overlap sections of the bias tape and place a strip of artist's tape across the overlap to get the bias tape to lay against the ball as I wanted it to do.

Once the bias strip was taped to the ball, I could step back from the ball and check my design. If necessary, I could adjust any area that did not look right. After that, I laid short overlapping strips of 1/4 inch wide artist tape along each side of the bias tape. Then I removed the bias tape. What was left was a double spiral of tape around the ball that I could use as guidelines for gluing the glass. Since the tape was in short strips, I could work a small section, and remove the tape as I went along, leaving the rest of the guidelines intact.

One additional note, the edge of the low tack tape was not easy to grab with tweezers. I found that the pointed end of a bamboo skewer worked really well to lift up the edge of the tape. Once I had an edge up, it was easy to grab it with tweezers and pull it off.

Update on Diorama

I've been working on the concept for the diorama.  The more I worked on the first concept the less I liked it, so it was back to the drawing board.  I think I have finally developed something I like and can create in a reasonable length of time.  The primary sculpture is in paper mache, but the background will be a mixture of balsa wood and paper mache.  Now I'm ready to start cutting wood.  I should have some pictures of this up in a week or so.

A Gazing Ball Using Glass Gems

This is a picture of my first gazing ball.  This gazing ball was used making glass gems.  Gems are rounded bits of glass with a flat back.  I used them for the first ball because I was testing the plumbers tape and silicone to make sure they would hold well with glass.  When testing, I try to do it as cheaply as possible just in case it does not work out.  I used different colors and sizes of gems because I wanted to see what the different colors would look like and how well the different sizes would stick to the ball.

The ball is bumpy from the rounded shapes sticking out all over it.  I wasn't very happy with that aspect of it, but the gems glow nicely when the sun is shining through them.  There is a very large gem at the top of the ball.  I found that these were so heavy that they could only be glued when the ball was positioned straight up.  Their weight made them slide if they were on the side of the ball.  You could do a gazing ball using only the large gems, but it would take a very long time because you would have to glue one on, then wait for the glue to dry completely before rotating the ball and gluing on another one. 

Grouting Mosaic Gazing Balls and Making Ball Stands

I wanted to mention grouting on the balls. When you are making your gazing ball it is important to have at least an eighth of an inch between pieces of glass in order to allow enough room to press the grout in between the pieces.  If an area is a little too tight, the grout will not go in without a lot of effort.  I put my initial grout on with a grout float, doing a small area at a time.  After I have pushed the grout over the area, I check to make sure that every space has grout in it.  If some of the spaces did not fill, I will add a little grout and push it in using a rubber or silicone spatula.  I also check to make sure that there are no jagged edges of glass coming up out of the grout.  If necessary, I will add a little more grout around the edge to make sure it is covered.

Rather than adding water to the grout mix, I use an acrylic add mix.  It seems to work as well as the water, but makes the grout more waterproof.  There are exterior grade acrylic grout mixtures out now that claim you will never have to seal the ball.  Maybe so, but I usually seal my balls anyway.  I use Armorcrete concrete sealer.  This product is to rated for twenty years.  None of my balls are that old, so I'll have to get back to on how well it actually held up in about sixteen years. 

The stand I used for this ball looks like stone.  It is actually a PVC pipe connector that has been painted with a product called Fleck Stone, a spray paint used to make things look like stone.  It is much less expensive than a purchased concrete base. You will need to sand the PVC pipe, seal it with a primer coat, spray it with the Fleck Stone paint, and then seal it with a clear coat.  The product is for interior and exterior applications.  It works well outside.  I have a sundial on this type of base and it has lasted out there year round for almost ten years.

The PVC connector is about three inches wide at the top and four inches wide at the bottom.  At first I just used one piece as a low stand.  I did find that in soft garden soil that it would tend to tip.  I have dealt with the tipping problem in various ways.  One way was put a small plate or stepping stone underneath the PVC to give it a solid base that spreads the weight over a larger area.  Another option was to glue two pieces of the PVC together before painting to make a taller stand.  Then I buried the stand several inches into the ground to keep it from tipping.   

Just a reminder.  Bring your gazing balls in during freezing weather.

Picture of my iridescent stained glass gazing ball

Today is a holiday and my husband and I have plans to be out and about.  I don't have a lot of time to blog, but I wanted to put up a picture of my iridescent gazing ball.  This is my first attempt at adding a picture to the blog, so I hope it works out!.
Yes!  The light hitting on the glass sends out beams of colors.  Although the glass is blue, it also shines out yellow, pink, and green colors as well.

Tomorrow I'll have some comments on grouting and making stands for the balls.

Carol

Further Comments on Foil Tape and Gazing Balls

I'd like to comment further on using the foil tape when making a stained glass mosaic gazing ball.  The foil plumbers tape is very sticky.  It holds well on the ball, and the silicone glue sticks to it well.  There are two different ways I place the tape on the balls.  Which method I use depends on what type of glass I am using. 

If I am using transparent or translucent glass I will lay the tape out in strips about three to four inches long.  Butt each strip up to each other as smoothly as possible, and do the same on the strips that are side by side.  This will make a very even base for your glass.  The grouting goes a little more smoothly with this method.

If I am going to be using iridescent glass, I will overlap the seams of the tape slightly at the seams.  The slightly raised areas at the seams will create a slight tilt when you glue the glass to them.  This helps the light strike the glass at slightly different angles and creates many sparkles of color from the iridescent glass.  It is a little harder to grout, as care must be take to make sure that any upraised edges of the glass are covered.  The ball may not be as smooth, and should be handled with care. 

Regardless of which method I use, when I put the plumbers foil tape on the ball, I use a small piece of dowel to rub the tape and make sure that there is firm adherence to the ball. 

Either taping method works well to reflect the light back up through the glass to give your mosaic gazing ball beautiful illumination.

My comments on creating mosaic gazing balls

My test link worked.  So I am ready to post more about creating gazing balls.  There are many pages on the web about this.  I have read a lot of them and found that many posts carry some information, but not all the information is necessarily in one place.  Having created a few balls, I thought I'd post some of my experiences that might add to the discussion and try to help get the more information in one blog.  This link is to a site where many people have posted pictures of their balls. Show us all your bowling balls!

Bowling balls are frequently used for the base.  Clean your ball with soap and water to remove oils and dirt. Other spheres can be used, but consider the weight of glass and grout when choosing your sphere.

Plug the finger holes with aluminum foil and silicone.

Some instructions say to prime and paint the ball before gluing on the glass.  I do not paint my balls.  I   cover them with a layer of plumbers tape.  This is a shiny foil tape with a very sticky adhesive backing.  This is not the foil tape that is used for taping dryer vents.  It looks similar but it has a lot more adhesive.  The tape serves two purposes: it waterproofs the ball, which will help it last longer, and the foil reflects light back up through the glass.  When light hits the ball, it almost makes it look as if it has some inner illumination.

Use the right glue.  Some glues will not hold at all, and some will lose their holding capability in an outdoor environment.  I use GE II Silicone for windows, doors, attic, and basement.  It dries clear and is sun and freeze proof.  I wear gloves to protect my hands from direct contact with the glue.  The glue does not set immediately, so it gives you time to shift the position of the glass if necessary.

The tube of glue is very stiff. Some people may have enough hand strength to squeeze a dab of glue onto the back of the piece of glass, but I am not able to keep it up for long.  I use a paper plate for a disposable pallet and use a plastic knife to butter the center of the glass.  If you choose to use do this, only squeeze out about an inch and a half of glue at a time because it starts to set and will get lumpy fairly quickly.  I only butter the center of the glass because when you press the glass onto the ball the glue will spread to the edges and beyond.  I remove excess glue by swiping it off with my curved tweezers and wiping the tweezers on a paper towel.  I also wipe my gloved fingers on a paper towel between pieces of glass.  Glue that gets on the top of the glass is going to have to be cleaned off.  It is easier to clean your gloves now rather than to remove the dried silicone later.

Glass.  You can buy glass tiles for your ball.  It is less expensive if you cut the glass yourself.  Wear safety glasses. If you cut glass, it is going to have sharp edges.  To remove the sharp edge, I put my pieces of glass in a plastic container with a top and shake it for a couple of minutes.  Don a dusk mask before opening the container.  There will be powdered glass in the container along with your pieces.  This is silica and is not a good thing to breath into your lungs.  Next, I wash the glass in a plastic container.  Do not do this in the sink!  I rinse the glass off and pat it dry with paper towels.  I strain the water through a coffee filter to collect the glass dust (called frit), then I pour the water outside.  The frit can be saved to use in some other project, or disposed of tied up in a plastic bag in the trash.

Cut your glass pieces small.  A sphere is curved, and the glass is flat.  If your pieces are too large they will not be flat against the ball.  Grout can take care of covering most of the edges, but large pieces of glass can stick out, and this poses a safety hazard.

Spheres roll.  I set my ball on a cardboard ring left over from a roll of masking tape. It is about three inches in diameter and holds the ball in place.  I have the ring inside a plastic baggie because sometimes the adhesive from the tape on the ball wants to stick to the cardboard.  I use an inexpensive lazy susan under the tape roll.  It makes it easier to turn the ball to check your work.  It is important to check the placement of the glass from time to time.  Since you are working on a curve, gravity can work against you and cause the pieces to slide.  I find that working about forty five minutes to an hour is about as long as I can work before I reach a point where pieces start to slide. I let that set up for a couple of hours before I rotate the ball to work on the next area.

I use a pair of curved tweezers to place my glass.  Tweezers make it easier to see where I want to place the piece of glass.  I also use the tweezers to check to make sure I have left enough space between pieces for grout.  (Some people make gazing balls with no grout, in which case you would not leave extra space.)  I like the mosaic look, so I use grout.  Also, not every piece is going to fit perfectly with no gaps.

I use sanded grout.  Books and articles recommend this type of grout for outdoor applications.  I also seal my balls with concrete sealer.  This helps waterproof the concrete, which will help the balls last longer.  The choice of grout color for the ball can be the most agonizing decision you make.  I have included a link to a discussion on grout color here.  Forum: Mosaics and Stained Glass  .

I bring my gazing balls inside during winter.  Rain can infiltrate the ball and when it freezes and may cause the ball to crack.  I have read that leaving balls in direct sunlight can cause them to crack also, but that has not happened to the ball I left in direct sunlight all day.  That may be due in part to the reflective tape I use.  Also, I do not leave my gazing balls directly on the ground.  Contact with the ground can allow moisture to seep into the ball.  I have used various things items for stands. Some stands are low, others are high, but make sure that they are either well anchored or have a solid base under it to keep the stand upright.  The loose soil of a garden can shift under the weight of the ball and cause the stand to fall over.

That is about my take on mosaic stained glass gazing balls.  Experiment and enjoy!

Testing: Learning to post a link

I am learning how to post a link.  I'm new to this so bear with me.  If I get it right, I will be creating another post blogging a bout stained glass gazing balls. Gazing balls are .   This link shows some examples of various types of home made gazing balls.

Update and Tip of the Day.

The new year is getting off to a good start.  I have been sketching ideas for the diorama panels for my paper mache sculpture of the devil and skeleton riding in a car.  I'm still debating whether to make them of wood or do it all of paper mache.  I have not yet settled on a final design.

I have two different ideas.  The first is to do a Halloween design of a town with the devil and skeleton cruising. This concept carries a lot of nostalgia for me because I used to live in a beach town.  Cruising the strip was the thing to do! The other is a scene of a cemetery on one side and an increasingly dismal scene of downed and burning trees with the road leading to the gate to Hell.  I'm tending towards the more light hearted Halloween scene, although the other scene would make for a stronger Folk Art type piece.

Tip of the Day:  Discovering your type of Folk Art.

When people begin working with Folk Art, it may take a while to develop your own style.  Explore different types of traditional folk art and find out what appeals to you.  Museums, books, magazines, and on-line sites are all good resources for folk art.  Practice working with traditional materials. Once you have a grasp of traditional folk arts, begin to see how you can incorporate these styles into some new way to make your own personal statement.  There is a good reason for keeping traditional art styles alive, but it is equally important that your work is a fresh take on the tradition.

Update and Tip of the Day

I'm almost finished with a Halloween papier mache sculpture. It is a skeleton driving an old rusty car. A drunken devil is sitting on the top of the back seat pointing and shouting. You can tell the devil is drinking because he is holding a bottle of beer.

I haven't settled on a title for the piece yet. Although the piece is completed as is, I am considering making it part of a diorama or shadowbox. Using a backdrop will allow for more detail.

I'll be dragging out my camera soon to start adding pictures of the sculpture to the site.

Tip of the Day: Adding Detail

I am often complimented on the amount of detail in my work, and how it makes the art a standout piece. I have a method for creating the right amount of detail. When I begin to plan a piece, I write out what I plan to make and what decorative elements will be included. Once the work has reached that point, I look at the piece and write out what details I want to add that will help the piece tell its story. I add those elements until that entire plan has been added. Then I repeat this process one more time, this time looking to see what elements need to be added based on spacial relationships to make the piece look balanced.

I find that going through the process three times creates a work of art that tells a detailed story that will capture the viewers interest. Three times through seems to be enough. Adding detail beyond this seems to create noise and look too busy.

The beginning of a new blog.

It is January 5th.  I am starting on my New Years Resolution to create a blog on Folk Art and Arts and Crafts.  My blog will contain useful tips and hints about creating art as well as give updates on my own work.  Until now, I have been keeping a journal on paper.  I have reached page number 3,043 in that journal.  I hope that this indicates to anyone reading this that I will keep this blog updated regularly.

Carol