Armatures for Paper Mache' and Carousel Update

Update on the Carousel Project:  

Cat armature before paper mache'.

The menagerie animals for the carousel have received the first layer of paper mache'.  They don't look all that different from the last photos, so I did not take any new pictures.  As usual when I begin the first layer I kept reminding myself that the first layer just has to get on and stick.  At this point it is not about shape, it is about creating a foundation for the later layers.  The first layer is the most difficult because it wants to slip and slide against the armature.  It is this layer that generally leaves me questioning my sanity and why I ever wanted to start the project in the first place.  However, the layer is on, and drying nicely.  The next layers will go on much easier.

I will be adding another layer today.  After that, the menagerie animals will get one more layer, then be ready for sanding and painting.  The third layer will give me enough layers that I will be able to sand down some of the sharper edges without sanding down to the armature.  Three layers of paper mache' will be more than enough for these small creatures.  If I add more than that, the animals will begin to look too bulky. 

Choosing Material for the Armature

Some people have asked me about how I choose material for the armatures for my paper mache' creations.  I thought that I'd address those questions in today's blog.  I have used a number of different armatures in the projects featured on the blog: poster board, wooden supports, wire, Styrofoam, and foil.  Each material has it's advantages and drawbacks.  Which material I use depends on what qualities I need for a particular project.

Wire works well when you need a strong internal structure for a piece.  Wire also has the advantage of being able to be bent into complex shapes and curves.  A thick enough wire will hold its shape even when the weight of paper mache' is applied.  What size wire I use is based on the size of the project.  Most of the time I use an eighteen gauge galvanized steel wire.  If it needs to be a little stronger, I will use sixteen gauge wire.  A twenty gauge wire may work for smaller projects, but too much weight can cause it to deform.  I may double the wire for additional strength.  I wrap wire intersections with tape to reinforce them.  A wire armature may need additional padding from other components to create the shape you want.

Wood will also work for an internal support.  A wooden support may be heavier than wire, but it may be cheaper to use if you have scrap wood available.  Depending upon the thickness of the wooden support, it can hold more weight than a wire support.  Wood can be cut to a specific shape to be a perfectly sized support.  Craft sticks can be used for smaller projects.  I generally consider wooden supports, or wooden supports combined with hardware cloth for larger projects.  I may also use wood rather than wire if I have a burner project (See the explanations of of a burner project in the Folk Art Pig Project in 2012.) in which I do not want to have any wire or metal parts left behind.

Styrofoam is great when you need a light weight material for an armature.  Wire and wood quickly add a surprising amount of weight to a project.  This may be a consideration if you plan to eventually ship the project somewhere or have to move it frequently.  Styrofoam works best when used in rectangular or square shapes.  You can cut and shape Styrofoam, but I warn you in advance that it makes a horrible mess.  Even cutting it in straight lines leaves a large amount of Styrofoam particles that need to be cleaned up.  The particles cling to everything due to static electricity.  Your best bet is to rig up the intake hose of a Shop Vac to be close to your cutting station to suck up the particles as you cut.  My husband tells me that there is some method of cutting it by heating a wire with electrical current, but that is beyond my experience. Also, I would be concerned about fumes.

Foil can be used alone as an armature, or in conjunction with internal supports.  Foil can be crumpled up to form the bulk of a figure.  It creates a lot of volume without adding a lot of weight.  Foil can be wrapped and taped to an internal support to help create the shape of the figure.  If the foil is crumpled tightly, it will not deform under the weight of the paper mache'.  Another advantage of foil is that the water in the paper mache' does not affect its ability to retain its shape.  As long as the foil is not food contaminated, I use recycled foil in my projects.  This helps keep the expenses of a project down.

Poster board and cardboard can be used in paper mache' projects, but they need special handling.  Just about any project made with this material is going to need some type of internal support.  The material is too flimsy to take the weight of the paper mache'.  I basically use them when I want a silhouette shape.  I have also used them in a basket weave to create a rounded basket shape in large projects.  The empty rounded basket can be used to create a large shape with minimal weight or smaller paper mache' containers such as pencil holders, bowls, or vases for dried flowers.  Once you have created a poster board or cardboard armature, you will need to cover it with tape and multiple layers of diluted glue to waterproof it before you add paper mache'.  Otherwise, you will find that your creation will disintegrate once the moisture from the paper mache' reaches it.  The lack of its cohesiveness is made up for by its versatility.

So to sum it up, the choice of armature is based on your intention for a given project.  It's size and weight are going to be the most important factors.  How much time you want to spend on creating the armature is another factor.  You also have to decide which method will give the most shape to the project in the quickest manner while meeting the aesthetic needs of the project.  Giving some thought to the armature will give you a better outcome to the finished project.